Parks Canada Rescues Two Climbers After 18 Hours on Mount Andromeda

Two climbers stranded high on Mount Andromeda in Jasper National Park were rescued following an 18-hour operation that required Parks Canada crews to navigate difficult terrain, high winds and a 100-metre rope rescue.

The climbers had fallen around midnight on Oct. 5 while attempting the Andromeda Strain, a technically demanding climbing route near the Columbia Icefield. They were stranded approximately three-quarters of the way up the route.

In a written statement to Bow Valley Insider, Parks Canada confirmed that high winds and challenging conditions limited helicopter operations and ruled out several rescue options that night.

At first light, Jasper's Visitor Safety team was flown to a lower point on the mountain before climbing to the top of the route. From there, rescuers completed a 100-metre rope rescue to reach the injured climbers and escort them down.

The entire operation lasted approximately 18 hours from the initial call for help.

For Mike Adolph, technical director of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG), the operation highlights the challenges rescuers face when trying to reach people in remote alpine terrain.

"When you think about the complexity of what they would have had to have done it's incredible the job that these guys did," Adolph told Bow Valley Insider.

One of the Rockies' classic difficult climbs

The Andromeda Strain is considered one of the Canadian Rockies' classic difficult alpine routes.

Located on Mount Andromeda near the Columbia Icefield along the Icefields Parkway, between Banff and Jasper, the route follows a steep gully that combines challenging rock and ice climbing.

Adolph, an internationally certified mountain guide based near Nordegg, said the route presents nearly every challenge climbers can encounter in an alpine environment.

"You're basically dealing with pretty much every single challenge that you could in the alpine climbing environment," he said.

The route's dangers have been documented for decades. An account published in the 1984 American Alpine Journal warned against climbing it during summer because of severe rockfall hazards.

Adolph explained that even sections with moderate rock-climbing grades become significantly more challenging when attempted high on a mountain in mountaineering boots, crampons and unpredictable conditions.

In October, climbers must also contend with changing ice conditions, shorter daylight hours and potential avalanche hazards.

"The difficult thing is trying to find that window when conditions are perfect," Adolph said.

That means finding a time when the route is climbable, the hazards are manageable and the weather provides enough time to complete the ascent.

Rescuers forced to approach from above

Parks Canada's mountain rescue program operates around the clock, with trained specialists responding to emergencies throughout the mountain national parks.

Depending on the terrain and conditions, rescue teams can respond on foot or by helicopter, including using long-line systems to reach people in otherwise inaccessible locations.

But those options are not always available.

Adolph said the location of the Andromeda Strain made the rescue particularly complicated.

The route sits inside a large gully on the mountain's northeast face, where even favourable weather conditions could make helicopter access difficult.

Rescuers also had to consider hazards such as falling rocks, avalanches and overhanging snow formations known as cornices.

"The first thing that comes to mind for me, is just like the overall safety of the rescuing agency, the Parks Canada team and what they're comfortable with exposing themselves to," Adolph said.

He explained that rescue teams must weigh the risks to stranded climbers against the dangers facing rescuers and helicopter crews.

In this case, approaching from above provided a way to reach the climbers. But that option is not always possible.

Other situations could require rescuers to approach from below or wait for weather conditions to improve.

Adolph credited the training and experience of Parks Canada's visitor safety specialists for their ability to carry out such a complex operation.

"Even with all of that time spent training and going through systems and stuff like that you kind of throw them into this alpine arena and it just steps the whole thing up a notch," he said.

What climbers can learn from the rescue

While the rescue brought both climbers down from the mountain, Adolph said the incident offers important lessons for anyone heading into technical alpine terrain.

One of the biggest considerations is whether climbers are prepared to spend an unexpected night outdoors.

Cold temperatures, limited daylight and difficult weather can prevent rescue teams from reaching stranded climbers immediately, even after they have called for help.

Adolph recommends carrying extra clothing, food, water, first aid supplies, emergency shelter and a reliable means of communication.

He also stressed the importance of having the equipment and skills necessary to retreat from a route if conditions change.

"Every pitch of climbing you need to kind of ask yourself okay well what happens if we need to go down how am I going to do that," he said.

That preparation is particularly important on long alpine routes, where turning around can be just as technically challenging as continuing upward.

The Alpine Club of Canada also recommends three precautions before heading into the mountains: sharing a trip plan, establishing a communication plan and carrying equipment that can help search teams locate you.

The club encourages backcountry users to consider satellite communication devices and RECCO reflectors, which can help rescue teams with compatible detection equipment locate missing people.

Parks Canada similarly warns that cell reception is unreliable in many backcountry areas and that satellite communication devices have limitations.

In an emergency, backcountry users can call 911 and identify the national park where they need assistance. Parks Canada also lists 403-762-4506 as an emergency number for satellite phone users.

"Climbers and other backcountry users must be prepared to spend unexpected nights in the mountains and prolonged rescue response times when weather, darkness, or operational limitations delay rescue efforts," Parks Canada said in its statement.

For climbers throughout Banff, Lake Louise and the surrounding Rockies, Adolph said the central lesson is self-reliance.

"There is a lot of things that came together to make the rescue possible and it's certainly not like it's a given," he said.

"There is going to be times where it's just not possible to get to you for a day or two days."

"You need to be self-reliant. That's super important."