Canmore Climber Takes Gold at Prestigious Colorado Ice Climbing Competition

Canmore ice climber Sara Lilley won the women’s category at the Ouray Ice Fest Elite Mixed Competition in Ouray, Colo., on Saturday, Jan. 24. 

The Ouray Ice Fest is considered one of the most prestigious and technically demanding ice climbing events in the world, drawing elite ice climbers from across North America and Europe to compete on some of the sport’s most iconic and difficult competition routes. A win at Ouray is widely viewed as a benchmark result in competitive ice climbing.

Lilley said the win came down to the smallest possible margin, with the final result decided by a single hold. She said the second-place finisher reached the next hold but did not hold it long enough for judges to count it.

The women had one route and 10 minutes. Lilley said she secured that same hold, then reached for the next one before time ran out. 

“It really couldn’t have been closer than that,” she said. 

What competitive ice climbing looks like

Ice climbing competitions can look confusing to people who have never watched it, even if they understand rock climbing. Lilley said the goal is simple: climb the route as high as you can before time runs out. 

“Generally speaking, it’s just who climbed the highest,” she said.

This year’s Ouray route had two parts. It started on a mix of rock and ice and then finished on a tower, where climbers kick the spikes on their boots into plywood and use artificial handholds.

The event’s organizers say they brought back a more traditional format for 2026, instead of the multi-round UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup format used in some previous years. 

“I’m relieved that it didn’t go horribly wrong,” Lilley said. 

“It’s uncomfortable to be nervous”

Lilley said the nerves can be intense, and competitions can reveal how much athletes care, even when they tell themselves it’s “just for fun.”

“You don’t realize how much you maybe care until things don’t go well,” she said. “You’re probably going to be critical of yourself. Be ready for that.”

Lilley said she tries to let the nerves pass instead of fighting them. 

“Allowing the emotions to happen is good,” she said. “It’s uncomfortable to be nervous but it’s not going to last forever. You grow from that.”

Lilley also said the hardest part can be what happens after the climb, even when the results look good on paper. 

“Even this year at Ouray, I won, but I’m not happy with the way I climbed,” she said. “I came to realize that you can’t just jump into it and be really good, you need to put years and years of training into it.”

Training in the Bow Valley

Lilley said she started competing in 2024, and this was her fifth competition.

Living in the Bow Valley helped shape her career and led her into ice climbing in the first place.

“It comes with the territory of living in the Bow Valley,” she said. “If you live there year-round and you really like climbing, then you’re probably going to end up ice climbing if you want to climb outside all year-round.”

But preparing for an event like Ouray means training for multiple styles of climbing, including rock, ice and the plywood tower section used in some competitions.

Lilley said she did much of her training outdoors near Canmore, including on routes that let climbers practise using ice tools on rock. She said she also trained on plywood walls while travelling. 

“I was just using the resources I had available,” said Lilley.

Lilley said she feels grateful for the people who support her training, including her partner and a Canmore climber who encouraged her to try competing. 

Looking ahead

Lilley said she is trying to balance competition climbing with outdoor climbing goals. She has an upcoming trip planned to Icefall Brook, and she expects to return to Ouray again.

Icefall Brook is a remote backcountry ice climbing area in British Columbia that is accessed by helicopter and anchored by a winter-only hut system. The zone is known for long, committing alpine-style ice routes and is considered a major destination for experienced ice climbers.

To follow Lilley’s journey, follow her on Instagram.