_{Tunnel Mountain vs Sulphur Mountain: Which Banff Hike is Better?}

Sulphur Mountain is the background to a billion gondola selfies, while Tunnel Mountain (aka Sacred Buffalo Guardian Mountain) lurks right in the middle of town like its namesake watchful buffalo.

The best way to experience these mountains is a hike. Both are simple in all seasons, but Tunnel Mountain is quicker and closer to downtown, so it's best if you want to squeeze in a bonus activity before or after a day out. On the other hand, Sulphur Mountain works better if you have an afternoon to set aside, as both the distance and elevation are significantly greater compared to Tunnel. 

Tunnel Mountain at a Glance

• Peak elevation: 1,692m

• Elevation gain: 260m

• Distance: 5km round trip

• Difficulty: Beginner

• Time to hike: 1-2 hours round trip, depending on if you’re focused on walking or taking in the sights

• Trail features: Forest, switchbacks, ridge walk, river valley views

• Amenities: Chairs and railing at peak

• Dog policy: Allowed, on a leash.

• Transport: Free parking lot (park pass required), 20-minute walk from downtown

Sulphur Mountain at a Glance

• Peak elevation: 2,451m

• Elevation gain: 755m

• Distance: 11km round trip (including boardwalk to cosmic ray station)

• Difficulty: Beginner to moderate

• Time to hike: 3-5 hours round trip, depending on if you’re focused on walking or taking in the sights

• Trail features: Forest, switchbacks, boardwalk, cosmic ray station, panoramic views, gondola option

• Amenities: Restaurant, coffee shop, seating and washrooms at peak

• Dog policy: Allowed, on a leash. But not on the gondola, so plan your way down accordingly!

• Transport: Free parking lot (park pass required), Roam no.1 bus to Upper Hot Springs, one hour walk from downtown (not recommended).

The Hiking Experience: Getting Up & Down 

Tunnel Mountain

Tunnel Mountain is suited to total beginners. Despite its name, it’s a hill rather than a mountain. There is a clear path with no scrambling.  There are some very minor steep sections, but these sections are short-lived.  

The first 100m or so of the trail, directly from the parking lot, is steep.  But the grade eases off, and it becomes a forested walk before you reach the ridge and walk to the summit. The peak is flat and open, fenced off for safety, and decked out with Park Canada’s red lawn chairs so you can sit back and enjoy the view.

The short distance means Tunnel is also a great option for your morning jog; plenty of people run up and down it. I’ve even come across the Mayor of Banff running the trail.  If you walk it, allow one to two hours round-trip, especially if you want to enjoy the scenery.  

However, Tunnel Mountain is such a popular trail that in winter, the snow is often tamped down into treacherous ice, meaning microspikes are a must. Otherwise, you might find yourself doing what I once did: sliding the entire way down on my bum and attracting many weird looks, then requiring a stiff drink.

Sulphur Mountain

Sulphur Mountain, on the other hand, is more of a challenge. While not the best choice for your first-ever hike, it’s still beginner-friendly, following a clear path of switchbacks with no scrambling. However, the elevation gain is significant, especially if you’re not used to mountain hiking–you won’t find yourself on flat ground until the peak. Again, take crampons in the snow.

The peak is where Sulphur has the edge over Tunnel, because you can keep hiking beyond the summit! A boardwalk trail leads up to an old cosmic ray station, which has a cool vantage point from above for Banff. Be warned, though, the boardwalk can get windy, so dress appropriately. The whole hike, including the boardwalk, should take three to five hours.

Of course, if you don’t want to hike the mountain, there is also the more accessible option of taking the gondola, which offers a local discount if you live in Canmore or Banff. 

However, if you hike up and want to take the gondola down, they often let you do so for free. I can’t guarantee that you’ll be able to do this year-round, especially on a weekend during the busy summer season, but I’ve frequently hiked the mountain mid-week during the winter, and the staff simply let you walk onto the gondola no questions asked.  

For the more experienced hiker, there is an alternative route up Sulphur Mountain.  The west side route up Sulphur via the Sundance Trail is longer, more difficult, and less well marked — making it less touristy. In winter, this is used as a snowshoe trail, and you’ll encounter deep snow. Set aside an extra two hours (round trip), and take poles in winter. 

I’ve never done it before because I prefer the direct route.  General reviews of this alternate route range from “extremely hard” in the winter to “very enjoyable” in the summer. 

Getting There

Tunnel Mountain

Tunnel Mountain couldn’t be closer to Banff Avenue if it tried. Reach the trailhead by simply walking for 20 minutes from downtown. 

Alternatively, there are two free parking lots, though these fill up in summer. I’ve never seen these parking lots full in the winter, though. 

The no.2 Roam bus is described as a Tunnel Mountain route but just goes to the campground, so you should walk. 

Sulphur Mountain

The walk to the trailhead from central Banff will take you roughly an hour, passing the Banff Springs Hotel. A small detour will let you see the Bow Falls, too. If walking, just know that you’ll gain 150m of additional elevation from downtown to the trailhead.  Honestly, I don’t know too many people who walk to the Sulphur Mountain trailhead unless you’re staying at the Banff Springs Hotel or Rimrock Resort, which are close by.  

Alternatively, the $2 no.1 Roam bus will take you to the Upper Hot Springs stop. This is usually a better option than using the free parking lot, which fills up quickly. The reason why the parking lot fills up quickly is because the trailhead shares a parking lot with the Banff Gondola and the Banff Hot Springs–so multiple tourist activities are happening from one lot. 

Scenery & Views

Tunnel Mountain

The trail up Tunnel Mountain changes direction partway, meaning you are in for beautiful and varied views. You’ll see the Banff Springs Hotel early on. Once on the ridge part of the walk, the views really open up, with multiple peaks and the Vermilion Lakes in sight.

Once you reach the summit, the Bow River valley opens up below you. Being in such a central position means you get a killer sunrise or sunset.

Sulphur Mountain

You’re among trees for much of the way up Sulphur, but there are pleasing glimpses of Rundle. And despite being situated right underneath the gondola, there are chances to see wildlife on the trail (my highlight was a marmot). 

It’s the peak of Sulphur that really provides, with panoramic views over the whole town of Banff, not to mention Tunnel Mountain, the Bow River, Cascade Mountain, and the Rundles. 

A highlight for me is the enormous Lake Minnewanka, which shines bright blue on a clear day. The view of the cosmic ray station itself is also magical if you like the romance of remote cabins.

Crowd Factors

Tunnel Mountain

There is usually more of a crowd on Tunnel Mountain than Sulphur, as it’s such a quick and simple trip. Luckily, it’s simple enough to tackle in winter, when the crowd thins out. You can also hike Tunnel at night with a headlamp, or early in the morning, which helps.

Sulphur Mountain

Despite (or perhaps because of) the popularity of the gondola, the way up Sulphur can be a little quieter than Tunnel.  However, due to the accessibility of the gondola, you’ll often top out on the summit with seas of tourists. 

Again, going off-season is a good option, as Sulphur is also a year-round hike. Basically, any time during the winter, especially mid-week, and the crowds thin out.  

An absolutely golden opportunity is when the gondola and visitor centre are closed for maintenance. This drastically clears the peak and the boardwalk section of the hike. Again, the west side route is much quieter if you’re up for a trickier trail.

Nearby Amenities

Tunnel Mountain

Tunnel Mountain’s central location means you can take your pick of restaurants and cafes for a post-hike celebration. 

However, I’d recommend the Silver Dragon Chinese restaurant. It’s only a 15 minute walk from the Tunnel Mountain trailhead — but on the other side of the river, so you’ll avoid the crowd that dares not leave Banff Avenue. 

The trailhead also lies on the Bow Falls and Hoodoo Viewpoint trails, so you can easily start or end your hike by seeing even more of Banff’s sights! 

There are no washrooms at the trailhead (or peak); your best bet is the public washroom on Wolf Street.

Sulphur Mountain

Where amenities are concerned, Sulphur Mountain wins. A visitor centre at the peak greets weary walkers with a mini museum, coffee shop, restaurant, and washrooms. 

While the museum section is excellent, the restaurant is expensive for what it offers. It’s usually better to wait until you’re back in town to eat. 

And, of course, the trailhead to Sulphur Mountain is right by the Upper Hot Springs, so you can always combine your hike with a warm dip. The springs building has a small cafe where you can get a snack and hot drink.

So, Which Hike Is Right For You?

Your choice should come down to the length and difficulty you’re looking for. 

• If you are short on time and don’t want to bother with driving or transit, Tunnel Mountain is definitely the way to go. You can be up, admiring the view, and down again all before breakfast. 

• However, if you do have the time, Sulphur Mountain is the more rewarding hike. Not only is it more challenging, but being higher up means you see more, and further, from the peak — and can take better photos. You’re literally 700m higher than Tunnel Mountain, which you can see just across the valley when you’re on top of Sulphur.  

• I recommend both if you have the time, particularly if you are just getting into mountain culture or are new to Banff. Both are straightforward but very satisfying beginner hikes, great for building confidence and tackling iconic Banff peaks. 

Note: It’s always worth checking avalanche conditions for Sulphur, and taking bear spray on both hikes.